30 Aug
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All About Savile Row & Why you Should Pay it a Visit!

Written by Marco Raynault

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Savile Row is familiar to anyone who is even faintly familiar with the concept of a bespoke suit. The term bespoke comes from the word bespoken that can be used in a phrase such as “the suit is bespoken for ….(insert name here)”. In other words, it basically means tailor-made for a specific individual. Savile Row is a shopping street in Mayfair, central London. In this article, we’ll talk about some of the history of the street and why it is of importance.

The street itself was built sometime between 1930-1935 as part of the Burlington Estate. It was named after the wife of the 3rd Earl of Burlington by the name of Lady Dorothy Savile. In the 1800s, the nobles of the area became increasingly occupied with the thought of elegant attire and to a large extent encouraged the tailors who frequented the area. Henry Poole is known to be the father of Savile Row and this dates back to the time when he opened a second door to his late father’s tailoring operations (the second door was located on Savile Row). In 1969, the Nutters led the modernization of the street and through the 90s, some famous designers such as Richard James, Ozwald Boateng, and Timothy Everest continued in the same footsteps. In 2006, there were only 19 tailors left in the region and many complained that the increased commercialization of the area and increase in rental/land prices may drive even more tailors out of the region (this is part of the reason why the Savile Row Bespoke Association was formed – to protect the tailors of the region and their art).

If you’re ever going to be in London, this is a must visit area for you. Besides visiting the diggs for some of the world’s top tailors, visiting the last spot where the Beatles performed live and the place where their Apple Corps offices were located may also add to the list of reasons on why you would want to visit the area.

If you don’t get the chance in the near future, here is a Google street view of Savile Row (it does seem to be a narrow street and there even seems to be an Abercrombie & Fitch):


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09 Aug
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What is a Detachable Collar? Should you wear one?

Written by Marco Raynault

detachable

A detachable collar, as the name suggests, is a separate collar from the shirt that can be fastened on with the use of studs. This type of collar is usually made of different material and is usually white in collar. The material the collar is made of is usually stiff and has also been given a good “starching.” This type of collar will of course need a special type of shirt. While the detachable collar is not so commonplace anymore, it is used by some in certain settings including formal dinners at times.

The detachable collar is said to have been invented by Hannah Lord Montague in Troy, New York – 1827. It is said that she was trying to iron her husband’s collar to perfection and so she cut it off, starched & ironed it and then sewed it back on. The concept was then commercialized by Rev. Ebenezar Brown and played a big role in advancing the manufacture of clothing in Troy.

Today, the collar is not very commonplace. It is sometimes used by barristers in the UK and Canada and sometimes at very formal occasions. With the advent of commonplace starching, this article of clothing has lost its popularity.

Here is an example of studs used with this type of collar:

CollarStuds

If you’ve worn a detachable collar to an event, do send us a pic and we’ll post it!

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26 Jul
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How to treat Sunburns for Men

Written by Marco Raynault

We recently wrote about shirtless running for the purpose of getting a tan and last week we talked about artificial spray tanning. It’s only natural for us to spend the time talking about sunburn, how it happens, what can be done to prevent it and what can be done to heal it.

The sun provides us with light and hence daytime but it also provides us with non-visible ultra-violet and infrared rays. The infrared is what warms our bodies. Exposure to the sun is healthy in that it supplies us with much needed vitamin D – too much exposure to ultraviolet rays can be harmful and can also lead to skin cancer, wrinkles, burns, etc… Men are generally most vulnerable to these harmful rays between the ages of 30 to 35 while women are most sensitive between the ages of 25 and 30. It goes without saying that when going out into the sun, using a sunscreen (SPF 30+) is a necessity. This will help minimize damage from the sun while also helping you get the tan that you may be looking to achieve.

The darker your complexion, the more melanin your skin carries and the less likely you are to burn under the sun as compared to those with fair complexions. The ultra violet rays tend to damage the melanin in our body and cause the skin to burn. The sun can damage one’s skin just as hot oil can. The rays will cause the drying and burning of skin and can even lead to blisters. Most sun burns will heal after a few days but severe sun burns may take longer. If you have been burned while under the sun, using Aloe Vera or similar moisturizing lotions can help treat your skin. Advil can also help reduce swelling that may have resulted due to the burns – avoid giving children Aspirin as this may lead to Reye’s syndrome (although rare it can be fatal). Once the skin is burned, it will eventually peel and new skin will replace the old. The new skin will be darker and it can take a few weeks for your natural colored skin to re-appear.

When going out, it is advisable to avoid direct sunlight during periods where ultra violet rays are at their worst (around noon-hour). In the even that you do get burnt, a cold shower (without soap) can help sooth the skin before applying antiseptic lotions or moisturizers. Drinking more water can also help prevent de-hydration (it also goes without saying that too much water can also be harmful – moderation please) and will also help your body get enough hydration to places that need it the most. If blisters do form, apply antiseptics and cover the affected areas with a gauze. Band-aids should be avoided as they will stick to the skin and will be painful and damaging to your skin especially when the time comes to remove them. Finally, if you are burnt, do avoid direct sunlight until your skin has healed. While the tips in this article will be helpful, consulting your physician is the best way to understand what precautions you should take to be safe so be sure to talk to your health care professional.

Happy Tanning,

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19 Jul
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Sunless/Spray Tanning for Men – a Brief Guide

Written by Marco Raynault

spraytanning

Sunless tanning has become quite popular amongst a lot of men and is said to be a $2 billion+ industry in the United States. In this article we’ll talk about some of the mechanics of this type of tanning and about some of the advantages.

Men usually consider indoor tanning because it is fast and easy. Natural tans usually involve hours of sun bathing and exposure to UV rays – all downsides. Tanning salons will have tanning booths where a mist is sprayed on your body that causes the color of your skin to be changed to a golden brown. The mist is made of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) – an FDA approved substance that chemically reacts with your skin in order to produce the tanning results. The mist itself is colorless and it’s reaction with the dead skin cells on your body produces the desired sun-bathed look.

Spray tanning usually costs $25/session (package deals can help drive down the cost) and will last 5-10 days. Most tanning salons will recommend that you re-apply once every week. The mist does have a starchy oder – but this is done away with after a shower. It is recommended that you avoid showering and sweating for 4 hours after the tan for an optimal look. While it generally isn’t recommended to wear your favorite shirt after the tan, the tanning experience is designed so that it does not stain your clothes. In the event of a stain, though, a wash will get rid of unwanted marks on your precious fashion items.

Finally, if you have dry skin or lots of freckles on your body, spray tanning may not work as well for you. If you do enter a tanning salon, the employees will usually be able to give you a good idea of what to expect with your skin type. One thing you can do, though, in order to make the tanning process more optimal is exfoliate before tanning to get the dead cells out so the tan is on a new layer of skin  – this will have it last longer. Similarly, moisturizing your skin (you can ask your female counterparts about this – they’re usually experts) will also make your tan last longer since it will prevent your skin from shedding as fast.

If you think that a tan looks good on you, we’d definitely recommend giving spray-tanning a shot at least once to see the effects – it can be a new experience!

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12 Jul
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How to Avoid Pit Stains – Men’s Guide

Written by Marco Raynault

pit-stain

We’ve all had it happen to us before – sweating more than we’d like to at the office… and you know what that means – pit stains! Needless to say, you want to avoid them at all costs.

Not that we need to list reasons why you should avoid them, but while we’re on the topic… pit stains generally make you look as if you’re nervous. Secondly, having pit stains will probably make you self-conscious which will in turn make you more nervous. When you do have pit stains, you’ll probably self-restrict your movements since you’ll probably try to avoid having anyone see that you’ve been sweating so much. The question is, what can you do to avoid pit stains? In this post, that’s exactly what we’ll discuss.

First and foremost, you should avoid a shirt that is too tight. The tighter your shirt, the more likely you are to sweat. Studies have also shown that uncomfortable clothing leads to lower mental performance – so the tight shirt is a doubly bad.

Secondly, if you tend to sweat a lot, you should probably stick to cotton. Cotton tends to absorb sweat and so this will generally help. If you don’t mind doing so, you should try wearing an undershirt as well. If you don’t like the collar of the undershirt showing through your shirt, then you should get a v-neck undershirt. In terms of fabrics, you may also want to give hemp or soy based fabrics a try as well as they tend to absorb moisture well. Polyester is a moisture wicking fabric – avoid it if you have trouble with pit stains. It’s not just the fabric type that you can focus on – you can also obviously wear darker fabrics so that when you do sweat, it’s not as obvious.

It goes without saying that you should wear antiperspirant and not just plain deodorant. The antiperspirant will help prevent sweating and you can even get one that deodorizes at the same time. Finally, trimming your arm-pits will help. We’re not saying shave them… but trimming them so they are shorter will definitely help your skin breath better.

Stay Cool!

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05 Jul
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Should you run shirtless? Advantages and Disadvantages of running shirtless

Written by Marco Raynault

shirtlessrunning

It’s Summertime and it’s hot outside. For all you runners out there, what kind of attire is most appropriate for your run? Most importantly, can you run outside shirtless?
If you’re not a runner, you probably don’t care, but for runners, running shirtless is an important consideration. There are a lot of factors to considers and in this post will talk about advantages and disadvantages of ditching your t-shirt.

First of all, I think we’re all on the same page with respect to shorts – you need to wear shorts. It’s just too hot for pants – even if they are running pants. As we talked about in our last post, this means that you’ll also be wearing sneakers and socks. Your socks shouldn’t be too high – they should be athletic socks that just about reach your ankle.

With respect to your shirt, you’ve got a few options – you could wear a t-shirt or you could wear a jersey or any type of sleeveless shirt (perhaps an A-Shirt). Alternatively, you could skip the shirt all-together. The advantage of going shirtless is that you can get a tan while running. Not all of us have time to go tan on the beach and not all of us like the fake-tan alternatives – so this is a really good way to get a nice tan. With a sleeveless shirt, you’ll tan oddly and that’s not great for your beach-bod. If you are going for the tan, you might not want your face to get as tanned so consider wearing a baseball cap. If it’s really sunny outside, sports sunglasses are a nice add-on. The other advantage of sunglasses is that you can prevent bugs from getting into your eyes. This may not sound like a common occurrence, but try running next to a river/stream – great scenery but the bugs can get on your nerves!

The other main advantage of going shirtless is that you’ve got way more freedom and you can feel the wind on your body which can have a very nice cooling effect. If you are a distance runner, you’re familiar with the concept of Nipple Chafing. Sounds weird, but if you’re running for a long time with a jersey on, the constant rubbing of the jersey on your nipples can cause some real damage – even bleeding. There are ways to prevent this other than skipping the shirt – but going shirtless is the easiest solution.

In terms of disadvantages… well, you need to be in good shape in order to expose your body in public. If you’ve got that beer belly, it’s probably not the most fun thing to tout the bouncing belly in public. In such a case, go with a jersey and move into the shirtless stage once your body is ready. This is especially a consideration depending on how populated the area in which you run is. Another disadvantage is that your body is exposed to sunlight and you always need to have sun-block at the house to prepare for your runs. Finally, depending on where you run, you can have bugs stick on to your body while you’re running – if you’ve got a hairy chest, the bugs can even get stuck :) Needless to say, this can be quite annoying.

With all of this said, running shirtless gives you freedom and more breathing room. If you’ve got the right body for it, do it!
Finally, make sure to check out all the blog resources there are out there about running shirtless – there are entire sites devoted to the concept. Here is an example: http://runningshirtless.blogspot.com/

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28 Jun
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Dress shoes with Shorts? Socks with Shorts? What can you wear with Shorts?

Written by Marco Raynault

It’s summer time! You know what that means… shorts! But with power comes responsibility… if you’re going to be wearing shorts, you’ve got to know what you can wear with them… Can you wear socks? Should you wear sandals? Dress shoes? What can you wear? This is exactly what we’ll talk about this week!

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First and foremost, shorts are generally an informal article of clothing. The most common look is to wear shorts with sandals. When wearing sandals, you should generally avoid socks. We did talk about this in a previous article: socks with sandals

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But what happens if you don’t want to wear sandals? Can you wear sneakers? Yes, sneakers are also informal and that goes with the shorts. If you are going to wear sneakers, you can definitely wear socks. However, unless you’re out on the field playing soccer, don’t wear the long socks that you pull up high towards your knees. This also holds true regardless of the type of shoes that you’re going to wear. You typically want to go for the athletic low-cut socks. They’re present but they don’t cover up too much. If you think about this from a logical standpoint, it also make sense… the whole point of shorts is to give you more breathing room – long socks don’t quite help you accomplish that :)

What about hiking boots? Can you wear a pair with your shorts? Sure, if you’re going hiking…. otherwise, doesn’t make too much sense.

The real question is… can you wear formal shoes with shorts? Generally speaking, no. Why? Well, they’re formal and shorts are not. Not to worry, though, there are still options if you want to wear something other than sneakers and sandals. You can wear boat shoes or loafers. We’ve written about boat shoes before: what are boat shoes?

bass-penny-loafers

Penny loafers are another option… they’re slip on shoes and you can even skip the socks when you wear them – great option for summer time.

Happy Summer!

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21 Jun
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Should you wear a Speedo? Speedo considerations for men…

Written by Marco Raynault

craig-speedo

It’s beach season again and the age-old debate about whether men should wear speedos begins once more. This being a World Cup summer, the debate has somehow intensified. All the women’s magazines are posting pictures of our favorite soccer stars and in some cases in very low-cut shorts. Why soccer would encourage men to wear speedos, we don’t know… but what we do know is women’s interests have peaked for this clothing phenomenon.

With that said, what are the pros and cons of a Speedo? When should you wear one – if at all that is…

Truth be told, culture plays a big role in the debate. If you’re in the South or on a Mediterranean beach, a speedo is not a bad idea – it’s culturally accepted and a lot of men boast the look. In North America, you’ll definitely turn some heads. Most men will avoid the look in the US and Canada… this is not to say that they’re any less confident than their South American counter-parts, but rather that they feel that it is a social stigma. It’s more of a fear of “what will my guy friends think?” and “is this the type of look I should be going for in a place where there are children?” Somewhat comical? Yes, indeed… but true nonetheless.

Culture aside, are there any benefits to the speedo? Well, yes…. it is great for speed and more flexible in the water as compared to baggy shorts. Speedos do also dry faster due to their sparse nature and also due to the type of fabric that is usually used for their construction.

Downsides? Well… for one thing, it is quite revealing… if you’ve been working on that beer belly year-long, it’s probably best that you avoid the speedo… If you’ve got a six-pack to show and maybe you want to get a better tan, the look may work.

With all of this said, it still comes down to culture. If you’re in North America, we would recommend mid-thigh length trunks – nothing too crazy in color and with minimal writing and graphics preferably. In most articles, we conclude by saying that if it resonates with you, you should do it since that is what fashion’s all about… In the case of a speedo, more considerations are needed.

Happy Beach Season!

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14 Jun
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What are Pleats? What kind of Pleats are there?

Written by Marco Raynault

Pleats are basically folds in fabric that are formed by folding a fabric onto itself. There are a few types of pleats out there… the main categorization comes from whether or not the pleat is “pressed.” If the pleat is pressed, this will mean that the fold will be a lot sharper. Similarly, if the pleat is unpressed, the fold will be more rounded. If pleats are sewn down throughout their length, they are known as tucks.

There a few types of pleats out there and we’ll try to go through most of them here:

Accordion Pleats

This is a very common type of pleat. It essentially involves folds of equal width that alternate in direction. If you were to press these pleats in one direction, then you would be turning these pleats into knife pleats. This type of pleat is not very common for clothing per se but is more common for accessories such as purses or even table clots. Take a look at the purse below to get an idea of what this type of pleat looks like (sorry about the woman’s purse on a men’s blog – couldn’t find another image that showed the pleats as well):

accordion-pleats

Box Pleats

Box pleats typically have a 3 to 1 ratio and are like knife pleats back-to-back. These pleats will tend to give you a bulkier look. Take a look at the dress below to see an example of this (couldn’t find a more manly picture here either):

box-pleat

Cartridge Pleats

Cartridge pleats mainly serve the purpose of gathering a lot of fabric into a small space – this type of pleat is commonly seen in curtains and also in the waist section of skirts. See image below of curtains with cartridge pleats:

cartridge_pleat

Fluted Pleats

Generally just very small pleats – can be rounded or pressed. See the fluted pleats used in the pillow below:

fluted-pleats-CUSHIONS

Fortuny Pleats

Fortuny pleats are pleats set in silk. These pleats were originally invented by designer Mariano Fortuny in the beginning of the 20th century. See dress below for an idea:

fortuny-pleat

Honeycomb Pleats

Honeycomb pleats are plain strange and actually look like honeycombs. This type of fabric is usually used as a basis for smocking. See image below:

honeycomb-pleats

Knife pleats

This type of pleat is commonly known for having a 3 to 1 ratio, being pressed, and pointing in one direction. The 3 to 1 ratio basically just means that roughly 3 inches of fabric is gathered into a 1 inch pleat.

Knife_pleat

Organ Pleats

Organ pleats are larger rounded pleats resembling a pipe organ. See the skirt below for an example:

organpleats

Plissé Pleats

These are narrow pleats that are created by gathering fabric, wetting it, and then letting it dry under its own weight. See purse below:

plisse-pleats

Rolled Pleats

Rolled pleats are essentially long tubes that are formed by using a rolling action to create the pleats rather than a folding action. See image below to understand the “rolling action”:

rolledpleats

Watteau Pleats

You won’t hear this term much anymore but it is essentially a single or double boxed pleat typically worn on the back of the neckline in older style gowns.

Filed under: Fabric

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06 Jun
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Can men wear pink?

Written by Marco Raynault

pink-polo

Historically speaking, there was a time when it used to be quite common for men to wear pink (an offshoot of red) and for women to wear the more conservative blue color (think Catholic School Uniforms). Perhaps this was because men were allowed to be more adventurous in those times as compared to women. Pink is very much an eye-catching color and so as women became more empowered, their clothing also became more daring. Eventually, pink transitioned into a state of such popularity with women that the general public began to classify it as feminine.

All of us know some male friend who puts on a pink shirt or even a pink tie. It’s not just that odd guy, though. Here’s Brad Pitt touting a pink shirt:

brad-pitt-wired-magazine

And here is a picture of Regis Philbin doing the same:

regis-pink

Like most wardrobe combinations, when you venture off into adventurous territory, you must be accompanied by a strong sense of confidence. If you’re trying to pull of this look but are self conscious about it at the same time, people will notice and you won’t leave a good impression – you’ll just seem week. If you can put on a big confident smile while you’re in pink, then you’ll definitely draw positive attention. Because pink is such a vibrant / energy-rich color, you will draw attention to yourself and this will magnify whatever inner feeling you have about your own attire. As long as you’re ready for the incoming glances from your surrounding fellows, then you’re ready to be a true fashionista in pink.

One last note though… if you are going to be wearing pink, be sure not to overdo it – one article of pink usually does the job.

Credits:

Regis Photo – http://www.aceshowbiz.com/news/detail/2008-10-17.html

Brad Pitt Photo – http://justjared.buzznet.com/2009/07/15/brad-pitts-wired-magazine-inside-pics/

Reference – http://www.esquire.com/style/ask-nick/pink-clothes-0409

http://justjared.buzznet.com/2009/07/15/brad-pitts-wired-magazine-inside-pics/

Filed under: shirts

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