17 May
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What do I need to do if I need a replacement pair of pants for my suit jacket?

Written by Marco Raynault


When it comes to suits, perfection resides in the coordination between the suit jacket and the pants. Though two completely distinct garments, both pieces complete each other in a manner unique to their utmost function as formal attire. Thankfully, if ever the misfortune of needing a replacement pair of pants befalls upon you, there are still a number of alternative steps that can be taken in order to repair the woe that is a damaged pair of pants.

The first option one can take to replace the pair of pants to a suit jacket is to simply go out and look for a new pair of pants that are as similar as possible to the ones that need to be replaced. As trivial as it may sound, this alternative can save one a lot of time wasted “crying over spilt milk”. By simply being open to a moderate amount of change, this option can also turn out to be more fruitful in the sense that it provides one with the opportunity to reinvigorate the suit by choosing a new pair of pants that feature a more tailored and contemporary fit.

However, when going shopping for a new pair of pants to complement the suit jacket, I would strongly suggest first deciding what the main objective of the “hunt” is: replacing the old pants with something similar or choosing a pair of pants that let you try something new. If the former is the chosen path, naturally I would recommend choosing a pair of pants made with a comparable material in a similar colour to the previous pair. This way, you will be assured the change is discrete especially if it’s your favorite suit. If the second of the two routes is chosen, you will be afforded a lot more sartorial liberty in choosing a new pair of pants that complement the suit jacket in a manner that doesn’t necessitate it being the exact replica of the old pair. Accordingly, you can always play with the colour of the pants by either sticking with the timeless neutrals (black, dark and light grey, etc.) for darker suits, or trying earthier tones like chocolate and beige for lighter suit blazers.

The alternative to buying a new pair of replacement paints for a suit is a long-overdue and underrated visit to a tailor. Depending on the case, this option can either appeal to your “safer” side, or entice your more adventurous facet. The benefit of a tailor is that, if ever the reason you need to replace your pants is because of slight damage to the garment, he can easily repair it and literally make the old pants look like “brand new”. Or, you could always get the tailor to construct a made to measure pair of pants, uniquely for you. This last option is certainly reminiscent of the elite Saville Row lifestyle in England where suits are discernibly bespoke and incomparably elegant. Either way, though regrettably often forgotten, the tailor is a classic alternative that can only result in a sublime pair of pants that truly fit like no other.

Now that you know that a damaged pair of pants does not spell the end to a suit considering the many different options that are available to you, it truly is your call on just how ready you are to commit to dashing change that can only be for the better!

Filed under: pants, tailored

06 May
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What kind of material should my suit be made of for summer vs. winter wear?

Written by Marco Raynault


When it comes to choosing the best suit, many critical factors must be taken into account. One of these paramount elements is the fabric used to make the suit in question. The choice of the material that composes a suit has to be done in a rational manner that reflects the bipolarity that characterizes both summer and winter.

Considering the fact that summer is thankfully right around the corner, finding the most appropriate suit fabric for the aestival period should be a priority for any sartorially-inclined man seeking to “beat the heat” in a manner that compromises neither style nor practicality. With that said, I would strongly recommend linen as a material for a suit. Due to its light yet sturdy nature, linen is an incredibly wise choice that will always be recognized for its ability to keep to cool by letting the heat escape. On top of its functionality, linen is also an incontestably elegant fabric that is especially ideal for suits seeing as it conserves the formality of the suit in a literally cooling fashion. Another reason why linen is the most ideal material for suits for summer wear is the unique quality it possesses of being dyed in eye-catching colours that truly are refreshing for the eyes during the unbearably hot dog days. That remarkable aspect affords the wearer an effortlessly chic allure that evokes the vividly joyous sentiments that characterize summer.

On the subject of winter wear, I would suggest choosing wool as the suit fabric because, as the natural antithesis to linen, it does a truly marvelous job in retaining hypothermia-preventing heat. However, like linen, it accomplishes this crucially fundamental task in a manner that provides the wearer an opportunity to be rational while still being dashing. One of the main advantages of using wool as the material that makes up a suit is that it can be woven in a number of different ways, a noteworthy element that renders it an exceptionally versatile fabric for winter fashion. The most winter-appropriate materials derived from wool are flannel, tweed and gabardine because of their time-tested durability and cold-repelling capabilities. On another note, these three materials can also be dyed in darker hues, like black, brown and dark grey, which reflect the more sombre atmosphere surrounding winter fashion.

Despite the extreme nature the seasons can possess, linen and wool are the most ideal materials for summer and winter wear respectively. While one beats the heat and the other retains it, both fabrics do it in a chic manner that conserves the classic formality of the suit. Evidently, linen and wool exude a rational confidence that can certainly be appreciated by all!

Filed under: Fabric

30 Apr
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What is a blazer? When should I wear a blazer? What accessories to wear with a blazer?

Written by Marco Raynault

 



As a classic everyday piece in menswear, the definition of a blazer is often forgotten in the sea of jackets that compose today’s fashion. Surprisingly, the blazer is nothing more than a suit coat cut in a more casual manner that makes it a more versatile piece. Accordingly, a blazer is usually adorned by simplistic details like lapels that range from thin to wide, and also a single row of two or three buttons that give the wearer the opportunity to decide on the level of formality of the blazer. Other features that characterize a blazer are the pockets that usually adorn each side of the blazer, and the singular pocket that acts as a functional addition on the left breast of the blazer.

 

Another defining element to a blazer is certainly the relaxed fit that differentiates it from its more uptight cousin, the suit jacket. That more casual tailoring is essentially characterized by a much-appreciated lack of shoulder pads that consequently creates a more contour-hugging fit that highlights the natural shape of the wearer. That deconstructed element is truly what renders the blazer such a versatile piece seeing as it can easily be thrown on without having to worry about the fit.

 

Accordingly, a blazer can be worn during a wide array of occasions seeing as its semi-formal nature always makes it an appropriate piece to refine any outfit. Be it a work-related dinner, a friendly night out or even a romantic date, the blazer is definitely the most ideal layering piece when it comes to adding a certain je ne sais quoi to a look that seems to be lacking one thing or another.

 

When it comes to the accessories one should wear with a blazer, I would honestly say that pretty much anything, from a tie to a straw hat, can be worn with a blazer because of how casual it is. A great accessory that adds an undeniable style element to a blazer is a scarf, a piece that is as versatile as the blazer. With that said, I would suggest tying the scarf in either a simple loose loop around the neck, or a more chic European loop.

 

On the subject of pairing a blazer with other garments, my favorite would certainly be the classic white button-up tucked into a pair of slim-fitting jeans and topped by a blazer in a neutral like black or even grey. To ensure the casual nature of the look, I would suggest leaving the shirt unbuttoned at the top in order to afford the wearer a bit more freedom in his movements. Accordingly, the button-up could easily be substituted by a polo shirt for weekend occasions that are even more laid-back and relaxed. To dress up either look, a simple cardigan would suffice.

 

Other options for blazer pairings are with striped or plaid button-ups that add a more playful and intriguing element to the outfit. Additionally, a timeless V-neck sweater in a luxurious material like cashmere or wool would contribute to the refinement and practicality of the blazer especially during the colder months. Another great piece would be an exquisite shawl-collared sweater with a subtly that’s appropriate for both young and old.

 

Despite its casual nature, the blazer is certainly one of the most versatile pieces in menswear seeing as it can be worn with so many different pieces and in so many distinct variations. Its versatility makes it the most appropriate garment for virtually any occasion where an elegant yet casual attitude is key!

Filed under: suit jacket

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22 Apr
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Thin Ties 101: How and When to Wear a Thin Tie – aka skinny tie / narrow tie)

Written by Marco Raynault

Pursuing the subject of the suit that was the focus of the two previous blog posts, one of the most important elements in a suit is the tie. Though nothing more than a long piece of material, the tie is a primordial accessory when it comes to the creation of a sublime suit. By adorning the front of the dress-shirt and consequently being an undeniable center of attention for the entire look, this simple article is one of the most omnipresent pieces in menswear. Be it the colour, the material, the length or even the width, the classic tie has been reproduced into so many different and distinct forms that choosing a unique yet sharp model has become a rather arduous task.

 

Thankfully, one style that meets both aforementioned requirements is the thin tie. Otherwise known as the skinny or narrow tie, as its name indicates, the main characteristic of this tie is its understated width which is usually between a modest 2 and 3 inches. The main benefit of the thin tie is that it gives the wearer a truly individual sixties-era retro look that effectively differentiates one from the rather trite sea of indistinguishable ties that regrettably characterizes the present epoch. Accordingly, the distinctness of the thin tie gives the wearer the incomparable opportunity to establish a personal trademark that is both recognized and revered by all. Though wearing a thin tie doesn’t take much in terms of sartorial audacity, it certainly possesses many rewards that can be appreciated by everyone.

One of the other rewards that result in donning a thin tie is the accentuation of a slender frame that it can afford any body type. Consequently, the ideal manner of wearing a thin tie is to pair it with other pieces that place a greater emphasis on length rather than width. A great example of such a piece would be the thin-lapel blazer discussed in the last post. The juxtaposition of both a thin tie and a thin lapel exudes a subtly elegant air of modern sophistication. The unconventional uniqueness of both garments certainly counters the ubiquity of classic suits when used to complement slim-fitting suits.

On the subject of the most appropriate time to wear a thin tie, I would honestly say that this accessory can be worn for both formal casual occasions seeing as its slim proportions render it a more understated option than classic ties. As aforementioned, when it comes to more dressy attire, the thin tie should be worn with a well-tailored suit in order to emphasize a more svelte profile. It should also be tied in a tight fashion that reflects the formality of the occasion. On the other hand, for more casual situations, the thin tie can be paired with a simple button-up with either the sleeves rolled-up or under an effortlessly chic contemporary sports blazer. Accordingly, for a more laidback look, the thin tie can be knot in a loose manner that eschews excessive formality while embracing an easy-going nature.

By being a time-tested alternative to classic ties, the thin tie is one that enables all to profit from a sleeker silhouette that compromises neither style nor class.

Image Credit: http://www.km-ic.com/blog/2011/07/men%E2%80%99s-staple-fashion-accessory-%E2%80%93-the-skinny-tie/

Filed under: ties

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16 Apr
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Thin lapels on your suit jacket. Are they a trend & How to wear them?

Written by Marco Raynault

Thin Lapels for Suit Jacket

Again on the subject of suits and the many carefully chosen elements that compose a chic ensemble, the lapels that adorn a blazer have recently been thrust into the fashion limelight with the emergence of a new style: thin lapels. By being a purely stylistic addition to the blazer, the lapels offer the wearer a greater amount of sartorial innovation and creativity in choosing the right style to create the desired look. As trivial as its definition of being the “collar” of a suit jacket may be, lapels do play an important role in ensuring the elegance of a suit.

When it comes to thin lapels, they essentially symbolize youth and modernity by representing a novel alternative to the timelessness of the classic lapel. Accordingly, the great thing about thin lapels is that they are the perfect complement to the slim-fit suits that have rapidly become omnipresent in menswear. The combination of a thin lapel and a snuggly-tailored suit creates the much-appreciated effect of a more slender profile due to the modern and sleek nature of the duo. This streamlined quality enables the suit to be a more versatile piece that commands attention on its own, while also offering the possibility for subtle accessorizing.

On the subject of accessorizing, in my opinion, a sublime way of accessorizing a thin-lapel suit would be through the incorporation of a shirt that features a club-collar (please see picture of David Beckham below courtesy of TomandAndrew.com (http://tomandandrew.com/post/2932238575/club-collar-pt-2). For those who may be perplexed by that term, a club-collar is simply a classic shirt collar that, instead of ending in a rather abruptly triangular pointy edge, is graced by a softer round collar that almost mimics the elegant curves of the tie knot. Though an undeniably dashing vestige of the past, the club-collar is making its own reappearance in current menswear by responding to fashion’s retrospective penchant for vintage sartorial elements from past styles.

Club Collar Shirt - David Beckham

The main benefit in the pairing of a thin lapel suit jacket with a club-collar is the air of youthfulness it affords the wearer. By being a clear yet understated fashion statement, this accessorizing exudes a chic aura of effortless class that both young and old alike will certainly envy.

Another manner of accessorizing a thin-lapel suit jacket is by complementing it with pieces that conserve the sleek finish of the modern lapel. Accordingly, I would suggest classic black dress shoes that eschew excessively garish pointiness, while instead embracing a more natural toe-end that curves in a harmoniously streamlined fashion. Add to that a timeless slim black belt with a simple square-framed belt buckle (like the one described in the last post), and you’ve got yourself an outfit that truly shines in its effortless elegance.

As an emerging that trend that truly deserves the recent attention it has been getting, the thin lapel is a great alternative to the classic lapel on a suit jacket seeing as it acts as a breath of stylistic fresh air to the timelessness of menswear. It’s sleek and it’s modern. What more could you ask for?

Image at top of the page (thin lapels) courtesy of http://styleforum.net

Filed under: suit jacket

08 Apr
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What type of a belt and buckle should I wear with my suit?

Written by Marco Raynault


When it comes to suits, nothing can be left up to chance. Be it the shoes, the tie and even the cufflinks, everything must be chosen with precise care in order to ensure the utmost class of the wearer. To add to that list of essentials, there is also the classic duo of the belt and buckle. Despite the timelessness of this quintessential accessory, many are still baffled by the subtlety of its elegance.

When it comes to which type of belt best fits a suit, my advice is certainly to stick with the understated gem that is the classic slim black belt. Considering the formality of a suit, I would suggest steering clear of gaudy embellishments seeing as they are not the ideal way of accessorizing. The major benefit of a black belt is that it naturally complements a suit of any colour. From elegant black to modern grey and even adventurous pinstripes, a black belt does nothing more but add to the sublime nature of a well-tailored suit.

On top of the classic tonal neutrality of a slim black belt, another benefit is its width. By being slender, the belt acts as a natural complement to the suit, instead of being the focus of the entire outfit. One thing that I love about a slim black belt is that it takes nothing away from the tailoring of a suit, but instead accentuates the impression of a lean figure by effectively cinching the waist in a virtually imperceptible manner.

On the subject of the belt buckle, I would suggest accessorizing with a simple square-framed buckle with a single prong. By being a classic, this element of the belt adds a much-appreciated touch of refinement to the suit. Also, the conventional size of the buckle makes it an extremely versatile piece that can fit any figure. Without being too big nor too small, the classic square-shaped belt buckle complements men of all shapes and sizes. One important quirk of the belt buckle to remember is that it must be chosen proportionately to your size!

Still on the topic of belt buckles, I would also recommend complementing a suit with a subdued chrome-coloured buckle that retains the versatile benefits of its tonal neutrality, while brightening any look through its soft sheen. It exudes a certain air of natural sophistication that certainly deserves to be shown.

If ever a classic slim black belt is too conventional for you, I would then suggest experimenting with different colours. However, if this route seems more appealing to you, one thing must be pointed out: the belt and buckle are supposed to simply acts as accessories that complement the suit, and not the center of attention for the entire look. Accordingly, it would be wiser to experiment with neutral tones like grey, navy, and both light and dark brown because they can add an innovative and modern edge to any suit.

Though there are a plethora of belts that come in a wide range of sizes, colours and buckle shapes, for the sake of professionalism, a classic hue, slim shape and elegantly understated belt-buckle that exhibited time-tested confidence are, together, definitely the key to success.

Image courtesy of:  http://www.wwd.com/

Filed under: belts

29 Nov
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How to Hand Wash Your Wool Clothing – Sweaters, Scarves and More…

Written by Marco Raynault

Banana_Republic_Merino_wool_argyle_full_zip_sweater

Well, it’s getting noticeably cold outside which means the winter gear is starting to fly off the shelves in preparation for keeping us warm. If you just bought that nice wool sweater and have worn it a few times already, it’s probably time for a wash – so, what do you do? The easy answer is just send it to the dry cleaners – and if this was a suit, that’s what you should do… but, in the case of a sweater, it’s worth while just to wash it at home. It’s not too hard to do and you can save a buck or two over a lifetime of washing your own sweaters as opposed to having them professionally washed. Here is step by step procedure that you can follow to hand wash your woolen clothes:

1) Grab a large enough basin and put enough cold water in it so that your clothes can be fully soaked by the water and can swirl around comfortably- but don’t put in your clothes yet! That happens in step 3…

2) Put a small amount of mild detergent in the basin and mix so that that it is fully dissolved… One table spoon of detergent is usually good enough for 1 article of clothing the size of your every day sweater.

3) Now soak your woolen item into the basin of cold water mixed with detergent and swirl it around for 3-5 minutes.

4) Take out your sweater and rinse it with cold water until you can get all of the detergent out – be careful not to stretch your sweater while doing this.

5) Put your sweater on a towel and let it dry for at least 12 hours – actual drying time varies based on material used in sweater, size of sweater, thickness, … You should never squeeze your sweater or twist and squeeze in order to get the water out – this will distort the form of the sweater.

And that’s how you Hand Wash Your Woolen Sweater! :)

P.S. Most of you probably already know this… but… why hand wash when you can just machine wash? Mainly because machine washing unwanted results may include: shrinkage or stretching, discoloration and more of those annoying fuzz balls that form on the fabric – so… generally speaking, good idea to avoid this :)

Filed under: maintenance

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01 Nov
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Travel Checklist for Men, Travelling Essentials &Things to Pack.

Written by Marco Raynault

travel-packing

Business trips, yet another occasion to dress well! There are so many different aspects to talk about but in this post, we’ll be looking at what you need to pack when traveling for a short business trip – we’ll run through a short list that we’ve put together and if there’s anything that we’ve missed, please do chime in through the blog comments and let us know!

Suit/Blazer

Pack a suit if you are going to have a formal meeting or a blazer if you’ll be attending an informal event. We suggest going with navy /black because you generally want to pack light and the suggested color will work for most occasions. You can always use your suit blazer with another pair of trousers or even jeans to mix and match on another day or occasion.

Shirt

Depending on the length of your trip, you may want to pack one or two dress shirts. We recommend a white shirt and any other color or patterned shirt. A white shirt will go with almost anything; suit, pair of jeans, etc. It’s a good essential when traveling because you can dress it up or down. A second shirt may be useful to give you a different look. In most cases, you want to either change the shirt and tie or just the shirt to give you a different look.

Shoes

A pair of black shoes can go a long way. You can wear them with a suit and depending on the style with a pair of jeans. Slip-on shoes are a good idea and if you’re going to be boarding a plane, taking them off for a security check will be faster as well (anyone behind you in line will also appreciate this). Look for leather shoes; they maintain a dressier look that can be polished before your next meeting. We recommend that you carry an extra pair of shoes if you have space; something comfortable that you can wear with jeans or other less informal wear.

Jeans, Pants or Trousers

A pair of pants and/or jeans would be useful during your trip. A pair of dark jeans usually is a good choice but at the end it’s up to you as long as it matches with the other items you have.  Jeans should be straight-leg or boot-cut and fit just right – no holes or fancy pockets.  A white shirt with jeans with or without a blazer will always look sharp for an informal occasion.

An extra pair of pants is also a good idea to mix and match with your suit blazer (a pair of grey slacks would work well with a navy or black blazer). Remember, wool is naturally wrinkle-resistant so wool pants may work better than other fabrics unless the other fabrics are wrinkle resistant.

Accessories

These are some additional things you may need when traveling for business: a couple of ties, belt(s), watch, sunglasses, cufflinks if wearing cuff shirts, ball pen, etc.

Things not to forget

Razor, shaving cream, tooth brush, tooth paste, cotton swaps, contact lens and solution if you wear them, deodorant, cologne, face cream,  media player, ear phones, neck rest for those long trips, mini carry on sewing kits (you’d be surprised when you may need this) and whatever else you think you will need based on the length of your trip. If you forget, do not panic; ask the hotel or drop by a convenience store at or near your hotel J

You’re ready to go!

Filed under: travel

04 Oct
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Different Types of Raincoats – Which type should you buy?

Written by Marco Raynault

long-cotton-putty-mac-23648-l

Mac Raincoat

With the advent of fall and chilly weather, raincoat season is back and there is no better time to figure out what different types of raincoats exist and which type would suit you the best. Raincoats don’t necessarily need to be worn when it’s raining, despite what the name suggests. As a matter of fact, one of the best times for wearing a raincoat is when it’s chilly enough that your suit jacket won’t cut it but it’s also warm enough such that an overcoat would be overkill. This is not to say that if it’s going to rain, you shouldn’t wear a raincoat – you should; but, you can also wear one when it’s not raining!

The very first of the raincoats as far as history tells us was invented by Charles Mackintosh. These raincoats, known as Macs, were introduce in the early 1800s and were made of rubber material so that they were waterproof. In the early days, the seems would get wet and eventually they were changed to be made of rubber material as well. Early Macs would do a great job at trapping body heat such that they would become too hot to wear. In order to solve this problem, little metal rings were added to the armpit areas of these coats in order to provide some breathing room.

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Burberry Trenchcoat

The second famous type of raincoat is the Trench Coat which was also invented in the 1800s but this time by Thomas Burberry. Burberry invented a fabric known as Gabardine that protected against the rain and the wind. Original Burberry Trench Coats were reversible. Trenchcoats have signature wide lapels that can be closed up for extra protection against the wind and also have a belt that can be closed up in the front on colder days and on the back on warmer days (i.e. thereby leaving the coat open).

While there are other raincoat types such as ponchos and anoraks, they are not formal-wear and generally are not what we would choose to wear with a suit.

Filed under: Coats

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27 Sep
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Boots 101 – Different Types of Boots – Part II

Written by Marco Raynault

We’ve written a lot about shoes here at SuitUpp (such as our article on common shoe varieties) and we’ve even taken the liberty of talking about certain types of shoes in more detail (such as boat shoes). What we haven’t done is talk about boots and so that’ll be the focus of today’s article.

Boots are most commonly identified by the fact that they cover up one’s ankle and have a distinctive heel. The heel is sometimes made of different material than the rest of the boot but this does not necessarily have to be the case. Boots are typically made from leather or rubber but can be made of other materials as well. The boot itself was invented for functional reasons but has become popular foot wear for fashion purposes as well. High Top athletic shoes (think Converse) don’t qualify as boots – mainly because they lack the distinctive heel.

Not considered a boot - No heel

Not considered a boot - No heel

The most common use for boots is to protect a larger length of one’s pants against mud/snow/rain – although, the boot can also be used to provide additional support to one’s ankle. There are a number of different types of boots out there but below is a list of some of the common ones:

Gumboots

These are also called Wellington Boots, rubber-boots, wellies, topboots, barnboots, muckboots or rainboots – this type of boot was popularized by the first Duke of Wellington and was then copied by other British aristocracy in the 19th Century.

Waders

These are waist high boots that are usually worn during flood rescue operations, when going fishing, in some sewage operations, etc… i.e. not the sort of thing to wear day to day.

Work Boots

Dr. Martens might have been the most popular type of work boots – mainly known to be an alternative to dress shoes… also a better wear for fall/winter time.

Cowboy Boots

Shoes meant for riding – no laces and typically long heals with a pointed toe and long shaft. More typically worn in Southern portions of the US – i.e. Texas.

More boot types discussed in Part II… available next week!

Filed under: shoes

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